Notes from the Dominican Republic

I’m back!  Alright, I’ve been back for a month and stalled on posting this, but here it is now.

I returned safely to San Diego, with about 250 pounds of sand in tow (distributed between 6 checked bags, 2 carry on bags, and 3 people) at 1am on Monday March 28.  So in summary, the field expedition was a success!  In summary:

Trials and tribulations: to be honest, this entire thing went off pretty smoothly and I can’t complain!  Felix was crucial, in terms of driving, Spanish fluency, and complete tirelessness in the field.  I was glad to be out hiking, collecting, and sieving every day.  We collected all of the samples we wanted.  Dick only tossed me into a rock wall once.  No one came down with an infectious disease.

Highlights: This was an incredibly interesting trip, both culturally and scientifically.  The fossil reefs were incredible- everything was perfectly in place and so well preserved! Fossil clams still had their hinge- even though they were 8000 years old.  The food was adequate and the rum excellent.  I was able to email Simon three different times during the week. I made a wonderful new friend and colleague in Felix. I got to spend ‘quality time’ with one of my thesis advisers.

View from the hotel, with fishing pangas in the background
Walking through a coral reef! Felix and I in a coral canyon.
Fossil corals, up close and personal- pretty amazing when you think about them being 7000 years old!

The Longer Version:

The Dominican Republic was unlike any other Caribbean Island I’ve been to.  Poverty was more evident, and tourism not as common.  There was a clear presence of the United Nations and the Peace Corps.  The streets were more reminiscent of southeast Asia than the Caribbean, with most locals on moto scooters with their livestock, fruits, vegetables, and/or children.  Road rules were only considered loose guidelines, and horns were used as a regular means of communication.  Once we left Santo Domingo, there were long stretches of empty jungle and beach between towns.  The towns were colorful, made of clapboard houses each painted in bright hues.  On weekdays we’d spot hoards of children in uniforms walking to and from school.  In the evenings the locals lived outside- eating, visiting, and relaxing.  The houses were small and mainly intended for sleeping.  Produce and meats were sold in little stands roadside- mostly pineapples and papaya, but we also saw coconuts, mangoes, and guavas.

The French-owned hotel/restaurant served delicious crepes at lunch and dinner

We made our way to our resort at La Playa Azul, just past Barahona.  The hotel was really lovely all things considered- hot showers, spacious rooms, and a pleasant restaurant.  It was built on top of sea cliffs with stunning views of the tropical sea and waves rolling in.  Each morning we watched fishers catching their bait for the day, guided by a spotter on the cliff looking for schools of fish.  During the day, we would drive between 1-3 hours to our field sites near Lago Enriquillo– in the middle of no where near the Haitian border.  When we passed through towns everyone stared at the group of white people in a nice white car.  We were stopped countless times at border checks, and had a bit of trouble explaining that we were turistas- why on earth would turistas be in the hot, dry, Enriquillo Valley?  With the help of our Panamanian assistant Felix, we only had to bribe one officer out of the many.

An 8-10 meter high wall, composed almost entirely of a single species of coral (Acropora cervicornis), from an ancient lagoon
more fossil coral!

Our first day was spent traveling to La Playa Azul, and the next three days we were in the field.  We drove to the approximate location that we found on google earth, then proceeded to play a game of ‘guess that canyon’ while watching the GPS coordinates and driving slowly through a particular area.  We eventually found our three major sites (and one… incorrect site)- two canyons that had extensive radiocarbon dating done, and one that had been studied extensively in terms of corals and molluscs, but never in terms of fish.  At each canyon we would assess the reef, pick our specific sample sites, and hammer out 10-20 pounds of sand, coral, and shell.  Then we passed samples through the vegetable grill basket (to remove the big pieces of coral and shell).  Once all of the big pieces were gone, I sieved the sand two more times and saved the ‘coarse’ fraction (didn’t go through a 2 millimeter sieve) and the ‘fine’ fraction (did go through a 2 millimeter sieve).  The really fine stuff was discarded (as in less than 0.1 millimeters) to save space.

Collecting bulk samples. The buckets got very heavy as we filled them with sand from the canyon wall, so it was easiest for me to hold it on top of my head.
An alternate perspective- admiring a coral reef from below.
Picking through samples in the pool (it was hot!)- I am removing shells and coral to make the bags lighter to take home on the plane.

I should interject here that the fossil reefs were truly amazing- 10 meter high walls of coral!  The preservation was so good, and so many pieces were there, that it was easy to imagine the entire system underwater, sharks and fish o swimming around, an occasional ray gliding past…

The veggie grill basket! This was essential for separating large pieces of coral. Once those were removed, I passed the sand through two more sieves to sort it before packing it up to take home.

On the fourth day, we stayed at the hotel and sorted samples- doing our best to take out all of the calcium carbonate, which was effectively all of the pretty stuff.  Shells and corals were all removed.  Our discards caught the interests of some other hotel occupants, and Dick did his best to turn them into ‘junior paleontologists.’

Finally, we drove (via one more canyon stop!) to Santo Domingo for our last night. Once we safely navigated the traffic and arrived at our much plusher hotel, the samples were all weighed, sorted, and divied amongst the luggage.  (While enjoying a rum drink and watching ‘Air Force One’ in English!)  One more night, lots of airport waiting, and two long flights got us safely back to San Diego, sand in tow!

265 pound of fossil coral reef sand, bagged and ready to go.
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